uPVC windows need little maintenance, but not none. We explain how to clean profiles and gaskets, clear drainage channels, lubricate hardware and make simple adjustments at home, and when you need a technician.
One of the most popular features of uPVC windows is that, unlike timber frames, they need no painting or varnishing. However, the phrase “maintenance-free” is a bit of an exaggeration. When gaskets, hardware and drainage channels get regular attention, windows work like new for years; when neglected, handles stiffen, sashes sag and rainwater seeps inside. Especially in areas exposed to dust, pollen and sea air such as Ortaca, Dalaman and Fethiye, a simple maintenance routine at least twice a year makes a big difference. In this article we explain the tasks you can safely do at home and the situations you should leave to a technician.
Cleaning profiles and glass
Clean the uPVC surface with lukewarm water and a pH-neutral detergent, using a soft cloth or sponge. Abrasive creams, steel wool, thinner, acetone and bleach can cause dullness and yellowing, and damage the foil on laminated profiles. Remove plaster and silicone residue left after construction not by scraping, but by softening it with plenty of water and a plastic spatula.
When cleaning the glass, take care not to get harsh chemicals on the glazing gaskets and around the insulated glass spacer. In seaside homes, the salt layer on the glass should first be dissolved with plenty of water and then wiped with glass cleaner; wiping directly with a dry cloth can scratch the glass.
Keep drainage channels clear
The bottom frame of uPVC windows contains drainage channels that discharge rainwater collecting between sash and frame. On the outside they usually appear as small slots covered with little caps. When these channels are blocked by dust, sand, insects and leaves, water accumulates inside the frame and eventually overflows to the inside. Many “my window lets water in” complaints are actually caused by blocked drainage.
To clean them, open the sash, clean the bottom channel of the frame with a vacuum nozzle or brush, then slowly pour a glass of water into the channel. If the water flows out of the external drainage holes within a few seconds, all is well. If not, gently clear the hole with a thin plastic stick; do not use metal wire, as it can scratch the profile.
Gasket care
EPDM gaskets are the most important parts providing the window’s air and water tightness. Wiping them once or twice a year with a damp cloth, drying them and then applying a thin layer of silicone-based gasket care product keeps them flexible. Oil-based products and petroleum jelly are not recommended, as they can cause some gasket types to swell.
If you see tears, permanent compression, hardening or separation at the corners, the gasket needs replacing. Gasket replacement can often be done without removing the sash, but it is important to choose a gasket that matches the profile section; the wrong gasket makes the sash hard to close.
Lubricating hardware
Moving parts such as handles, hinges, stay arms and lock keeps should be lubricated at least once a year. Use acid-free, non-resinous machine oil or the spray lubricant recommended by the hardware manufacturer. Open the sash, apply a drop of oil to every locking pin around the sash and to the keeps on the frame, then open and close the handle a few times to spread it. Wipe off the excess; otherwise it attracts dust.
Simple adjustments you can make at home
Tilt and turn hardware has adjustment screws at the hinge and stay that can be turned with an Allen key. These allow the sash to be adjusted sideways, up and down, and for closing pressure. If the sash rubs on the bottom frame, it can be raised slightly with the height adjustment; most locking pins have eccentric heads that can be turned to switch between winter and summer pressure.
When adjusting, proceed in small steps such as a quarter turn and check the result by opening and closing the sash after each step. If you are not sure what a screw does, do not force it; a wrong adjustment can make the problem worse rather than solve it.
| Task | Frequency | Can you do it yourself? |
|---|---|---|
| Cleaning profiles and glass | Seasonally | Yes |
| Cleaning drainage channels | Twice a year | Yes |
| Cleaning and caring for gaskets | 1-2 times a year | Yes |
| Lubricating hardware | Once a year | Yes |
| Locking pin pressure adjustment | When needed | Yes, with care |
| Sagging, hinge and stay adjustment | When needed | Technician recommended |
| Replacing gaskets, handles, hinges | On failure | Technician recommended |
| Replacing misted insulated glass | On failure | Technician required |
When should you call a technician?
If the sash sags noticeably, the handle turns halfway and jams, the sash comes away from the hinge in tilt and turn positions at once, condensation forms inside the insulated glass, or water or air comes in between the frame and the wall, the problem goes beyond a simple adjustment. In these cases the hardware, glazing packers or installation detail must be checked. Incorrect intervention can lead to dangerous outcomes such as the sash coming off its hinge and falling.
A practical tip for holiday home owners: have your windows checked before the season opens, in April and May. In houses closed all winter, gaskets can stick and drains can block. An early check saves you from surprises when your guests arrive.
Conclusion
Regular cleaning, clear drainage channels, well-kept gaskets and lubricated hardware are the cheapest way to extend the life of uPVC windows. You can make simple adjustments yourself, but seek expert help for sagging, broken parts and glass problems. Our team carries out on-site inspections for maintenance, adjustment and repair, and offers a free site survey and measurement if new windows are needed.
